Chamberlain Group elected to hide my solution by sneakily setting my post to private on their community. Here's what they blocked.

NOTE: Welcome fellow Chamberlain victim! This write up isn't intended as a complete build guide. I just wanted to chronicle some of what I did to come up with a solution. That said, as long as you have some basic skills and/or a desire to experiment, you will be successful.


I earlier had posted about how I integrated an Alexa controlled, inexpensive single channel relay so I could open and close my 8550 from Alexa, as well as via IFTTT geofencing when I entered the neighborhood.

This worked well, but I didn't like how if the door was already open, the door could close with another open command since the trigger is stateless (dumb). For example: your family is home and they've got the door open. You roll into the 'hood and IFTTT triggers the door as it should, but because it was open it now closes.

I realized there was an easy and still inexpensive solution to this by using a two channel relay in conjunction with a magnetic window switch that has both NO and NC contacts. By mounting the magnetic switch to the door, and wiring each relay channel onto one of the contacts of the switch, you create a physical "toggle" such that when the door is open, the circuit is broken and further open commands won't work.

Likewise if the door is closed, subsequent close commands won't do anything.

Alexa/Google/IFTTT still are clueless about the state of the door, but now they just shoot blanks when a trigger is given and the reed switch has the circuit open.

This "upgrade" brought the total price up about $12 from my previous setup: an extra $6 for the two channel relay over the one channel, and $6 for the magnetic reed switch.

LiftMaster 883LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Door Control Push Button                $11.95 
MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch 2 channel Relay Module (Amazon) $19.90
Magnetic Switch with NC and NO contacts $5.84
Total $37.69
The rest of the materials are again things I had laying around already:

  • a different power supply. This relay needs 7-32V AC or DC, so a 5V USB wasn't sufficient. I found a 12V DC wall wart in the junk drawer that was pressed into service
  • A three wire PC power cord to run from the reed switch back to the relay. One wire each for COM, NO and NC
  • wire ring terminals - not needed but I felt they'd hold better to the switch terminals if there was any vibration vs bare wire loops
  • some pieces of metal and wood, screws, wire nuts etc

After installation, and reprogramming all my Alexa routines such that the various "open" commands used Channel 1, and all the "close" commands used Channel 2, it all works like a charm!

When the door is closed, and the magnet is away from the reed switch, the NO terminal is closed. This is wired to channel 1 for OPEN commands. When the door is fully open and the magnet engages the switch, the NO terminal opens, disabling the OPEN command circuit, and the NC side closes. NC is wired into Channel 2 for CLOSE commands. Sounds confusing I know. Really though, how you wire it up doesn't matter. If you get it backwards you just use the channels the other way around when you program Alexa etc. Matters not. The point is now the correct channel can trigger the door at a given time without the other channel interfering.

This way of doing it will work for any garage door. If yours doesn't have Security+2.0 then you don't need the 833LM push button and things are even cheaper and easier.

Note: if you have a MyQ, while this solution itself can't show you the open/close state of the door, the MyQ app will.

Here's all the stuff. Thanks to user Ryan Frye for the shot of wiring into the micro switch, which I neglected to get previously:


L-R, starting at the top (full size photo here):

  1. Voltmeter just to make my life easier figuring out what was NO and what was NC, white 2 channel inching relay and 12V power supply, the black reed switch halves, a couple pieces of metal to mount the magnet half to my garage door, the ring terminals and PC power cord
  2. Magnetic reed switch
  3. 833LM from previous installation, showing how to tap into the microswitch
  4. reed switch mountings. Terminal side mounted to some wood of appropriate length and attached to the ceiling joist. PC cord runs off to the 2 channel relay.
  5. 2 Channel Relay mounted next to 833LM
  6. Entire assembly hidden up in ceiling joists above my 8550


So if you're handy, for a one time $40-$50 (and a couple hours of your time) you can get the smart home integration Chamberlain is so stubbornly resisting.

Good luck!

UPDATE

I have since ditched the magnetic portion of the reed switch that was mounted to the metal brackets in favor of a 3"  rare earth magnet bar. 

With the occasional variation in stopping location of the door, sometimes the reed switch magnet wasn't lining up properly.  The longer rare earth magnet, plus its inherent strength, did away with this problem.


UPDATE #2

if you go the rare earth magnet route, get yourself the kind with screw holes built in. These magnets are so strong that they were tending to align themselves over time to an area of the door that must have had more steel in it. I Gorilla Glued mine down eventually to keep it in place.


  • Jose Santiago

    on July 22, 2019

    Thanks for sharing this idea to add Alexa control to the new WiFi enabled MyQ garage door openers. I just wanted to share my solution to the same problem.

    I have used this product sold on eBay (link below) for the past year until my garage door opener was updated to a MyQ model, at which point it was made obsolete by Chamberlain:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wi-Fi-Garage-Door-Opener-with-App-for-Smartphones-/291986768961

    This product (I'll call it "eBay controller") uses a simple eWeLink controller similar to the cheap WiFi enabled smart plugs sold on Amazon. However this one uses a momentary switch activation (about 1 second) when told by Alexa. Since Chamberlain refused to allow Alexa connectivity I thought I'd come up with another solution, which turned out to be quite similar to yours.

    I procured another remote control device for my opener, took out the circuit board from the enclosure and wired (soldered) the push button switch of this remote to the two wires from the eBay controller. I placed both the remote control circuit board and the eBay controller in a plastic box and plugged it to a wall outlet in my garage where there was strong WiFi signal. Essentially the eBay controller mimics physically pushing the button of the garage door remote.

    I've set up an Alexa routine to control the eBay controller "Alexa' enable garage door" to open or close the garage door. This solution, nor the eWeLink app does not show the open or closed state of the garage door so any Alexa routine to energize the eBay controller will close the garage door (if open) or open it (if closed). I can obviously rely on the MyQ app to show me the state of the garage door if needed.

    I'm sure there are other ways to "skin the cat" but I thought I'd share my version. Thanks

  • Tim McDaniel

    on May 11, 2019

    I have purchased 4 different modules for myself and as gifts for my grown kids as gifts over the years. After learning about how Chamberlin is not allowing Alexa control with their openers I have a really bad taste in my mouth for their company. Thank you for posting this workaround but I am really aggravated with Chamberlin for how they appear to be greedy bastards. I won't be buying or recommending their product to anyone else unless they chance their policies on working with Alexa.

  • Bruce Skinner

    on December 21, 2018

    Michael, this wasn't intended as a complete build guide. I just wanted to chronicle some of what I did to come up with a solution. That said, as long as you have some basic skills and/or a desire to experiment, you will be successful.

  • Michael Damato

    on November 26, 2018

    This is just what I have been looking for! Would it be possible to provide a schematic of the wiring? It is difficult to determine from the photo which wires go where. For example, there are two white wires coming from the controller. One goes to the switch (not sure which one) and the other I'm not sure what it is connected to.

  • Bruce Skinner

    on November 6, 2018

    Thanks Seth and Judith!

  • Seth Martin

    on November 6, 2018

    You, sir, are a wizard.

    Thanks very much for this. I recently found myself plummeting down this automation rabbit hole with Chamberlain, hoping that Siri Shortcuts would soon be enabled to work with their opener ("it only makes sense, right?!").

    Same song, different verse. To round out the conversation (and to throw in the towel), I shared your modification again on the Siri Shortcut post (giving credit to where credit is due!). Hope you don't mind.

    Thanks again!

    https://myqcommunity.chamberlain.com/chamberlainmyq/topics/ios-12-shortcuts-feature-for-myq-smart-garage-hub?utm_source=notification&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=new_reply&utm_content=reply_button&reply[id]=19784354#reply_19784354

  • Judith Gillett

    on October 19, 2018

    Thank you for sharing this. Chamberlain's shamelessly greedy determination to monetize Alexa integration has been s source of ongoing frustration and your solution looks like a permanent work-around.

    My Chamberlain setup predates their monthly fee demands and I imagine I'm not the only one out there with an older setup purchased without their disclosure of this fee requirement. I'm holding out hope that enough of us will find each other to organize and make a class action suit viable. As many have pointed out, Chamberlain has no right to restrict our enjoyment of their product purchased in good faith.

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